V Международный конкурс научно-исследовательских и творческих работ учащихся
Старт в науке
МОДА БАРОККО. ОТ ИСТОРИЧЕСКОЙ ПОМПЕЗНОСТИ ДО СОВРЕМЕННОЙ ПОВСЕДНЕВНОСТИ…
Автор работы награжден дипломом победителя III степени
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Introduction
At school, in the course of English learning, the theme “Clothing” is studied from the 2nd form till the 10th one. So, in the 2nd form we learned the items and colour of the clothes, in the 5th form- school uniform and so on. In the English language course of grade 10, we are offered to make different projects on the topic “Fashion and clothing”, that allows us to learn it in individual and creative format.
The topicality of the project
Today, young people, especially girls, want to look fashionable, beautiful and a bit exclusive. In their wardrobes they have a variety of modern clothes and jewelry to show off, without thinking that some elements of their clothing belong to different classic styles.
I'm interested in the classic styles, especially in the Baroque style for its brightness, expressive, and eye-catching….Nowadays, the typical costumes of the Baroque style can be found only at the Venice carnival,but the elements of this style are fairly common - buckles, frills, fluffy sleeves and skirts, embroidery, intricate patterns, theme prints, muffy and fans. Clothes in Baroque style is quite actual and can be seen in the fashion shows of famous designers,such as Dolce &Gabbana, Valentino, Lanvin, Ballman in Milan, Paris and London.
But we believe that the Baroque element can be added in everyday clothing to give it liveliness, saturation, freshness and exclusivity.
Hypothesis: the elements of a classic Baroque style can be combined with modern casual clothing.
The aim of the project is the study of a historical costume of the Baroque era and the modeling sketches of modern casual clothes with its elements to prove the possibility of its presence not only in modern fashion shows but in our everyday life.
Subject fields: English language, history, cultural science, fine art, design.
The objects of study and design are:styles, clothes elements and decoration.
The objectives of the project:
- to study the history and development of the Baroque style in clothing;
- to identify the elements of the Baroque style in a modern fashion;
and on the basis of the obtained knowledge
- to systematize information about the elements of the Baroque style in the table
- to create sketches of modern casual clothes with Baroque elements.
Research methods and design: the study and analysis of the Internet resources, containing information about Baroque style; the experiment (sketching clothes with elements of Baroque style).
The product of the project: creating sketches of contemporary youth clothing with elements of the Baroque trend.
Types of presentations:report, Power Point presentation, illustrated English Russian mini-dictionary, the album is a collection of sketches of the clothes by designer Е. Manuzina.
The innovation of the project:the creation of a collection of sketches of modern casual clothing with Baroque elements.
Baroque fashion. From historical pomposity to modern everyday life....
2.1. Origin, popularity and the spread of the Baroque style.
The development of the fashion has always been accompanied by the development of the society. Since ancient times, styles have changed each other from ancient to modern ones, reflecting the public mood. Among them: plain and proportional Аncientstyle, suitable and convenient Romanic, pointed Gothic, symmetrical and elegant Renaissance, eccentric Baroque, intimate Rococo, neckline Empire, bourgeois Romanticism, and extravagant Modern.*
In my opinion, the most interesting style is the Baroque one, due to its numerous characteristics. It is called "fancy", "strange", "vulgar", "luxurious", "bright", "theatrical", "pretentious"... They still argue about the origin of the word “Baroque”. From Italian this word ( barocco) means "prone to excess", from Portuguese (perolabarroca) - "pearl of irregular shape" (literally "pearl with Vice"), from Latin (bis-roca) -"twisted stone", or (verucca) - “defect in the precious stone.**
Anyhow, Italy is considered to be a native land of Baroque. Many Italian cities of that time were the richest, funniest and the most sophisticated ones, such as Florence, Venice and Rome. Then Baroque style was spread throughout Europe, replacing boring and proportional clothing of the Renaissance époque.
But the highest blossoming was reached by it in France, ruled by Louis XIV. That time even the Church was not against the luxury.
In general, Baroque style is characterized by peculiar grandeur, the pursuitof Majesty, pathetic elation; demonstration of luxury, wealth and splendor, and theatricality. The naturalness and ease of that era were identified with savagery and ignorance.
* Classic styles [Electronic resource].-URL: http://www.passion.ru/beauty/style/style.html
** Baroque– Wikipedia [Electronic resource] .-URL: https://ru.wikipedia.org/wiki/Барокко
Summary:
At the turn of the XVI-XVII centuries, Italy became the center of "cultural conflict".*
There is a new movement in art, which begins to oppose itself to traditions and Classicism. It is Baroque. In the middle of XVII century Baroque penetrates in painting, architecture, literature, music and, of course, fashion. Baroque is beneficially different from anything seen before, by its wealth and luxury items, gold plated items… and very soon, it gains the popularity and high demand.
* Culture conflict- is a conflict, which takes place by the clash of cultural values and beliefs. [Electronic resource] .-URL: Mode of access: https://ru.wikipedia.org
2.2. Demonstrations of the Baroque style in the clothing of the Victorian era
The Baroque era was accompanied by the time of entertainment: theatres, masquerades, carnivals. Therefore, the main characteristics of the style became the theatricality, luxury and splendor... The cult of redundancy dominated completely.
The clothes of men and women were represented by a large and complex design of expensive materials - velvet, brocade, satin. They were differed by the mixture of bright colors, colorful patterns and complex drawings... The combination of «black and gold colours » was considered to be the most pompous one. The garment had to be theatrical….
Baroque garment*
The women dress was very rich and varied. It included: corset; puffy skirts on the whalebone, which was as a frame; dress with a low neckline and a long train, flounces, ruffles, patterns, theme prints, high-heeled shoes, gloves, fans, parasols, jewelry with large precious stones, numerous ribbons, buttons, flowers, feathers, high hair..... Women used white and blush, so that their faces looked like the masks. Everything had to be pompous…
The clothing of the men was quite fancy: shirts, decorated with lace, long coats with a turnback collar or jabot, breeches would end below the knees, tight stockings, shoes with bows or buckles. Men wore lush wigs, which visually increased the volume of the head and demonstrated the advantage of the owner. A wig served as a sign of the secular power.
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*Baroque garment [Electronic resource]. URL:http://yandex.ru/images/search
2.3. “The gallant century” of woman’s costume
I’m interested in the female costume of the era of so-called "Gallant century"*. The main feature of woman's fashion of that period was femininity
(and eroticism)**. The basis of the gallant aesthetics was a corset (it was worn not only by women but also men). He visually slimed the waist, extended the shoulders and made the back perfectly straight.
Baroque fashion**
Women's costume was differed by the emphasized femininity. All elements of the costume gave women the image of the nobility and the purity.
The main expressive line of women's costume of the period was a double line skirt. Women wore three skirts:top – «shyness», middle - «playfulness», lower – «secret».
Typical additions to the woman's costume were bright silk stockings, gloves, ties scarves, lace scarves, white or colored aprons, trimmed with lace, fringe, ruffles, embroidery; the folding fans; watch, attached to the belt, ormirror in an expensive frame. The women prized jewelry especially pearl necklaces, medallions, earrings, bracelets, rings, tiaras.
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* "Gallant century"*.(фр. Fêtes galantes) —"The gallant century" is a period,
which covers the period from 1715 to 1770-ies, i.e., all the reign of Louis XV. The gallantry means "exquisite politeness, extraordinary politeness, the worship of female beauty, a kind of "Ministry" lady, execution all its desires and whims".The gallant century -Wikipedia. About the term "gallantry" [Electronic resource].-URL: https://ru.wikipedia.org/
** Beauty-Studio AndreyKovalenko Fashion Baroque [Electronic resource].-URL:http://atelier.kharkov.ua/vse-o-svadbe/barocco.html
Ladies shoes were on the French heel, made a gaitcautious and graceful: shoes with heels of a mul; shoes with delicate perforation; shoes with bushy tip of the sock; shoes with Welt; closed shoes with a brooch or a bow. Shoes of colored leather, brocade, velvet had a high curved heel and a narrow pointed nose.
They were decorated with bows, buckles, sockets.
Lady shoes of baroque style
The most popular women's hairdo was the hair "a La Fontanges"**. It was consisted of combinations of curls and starched clips, which was supplemented with a wire frame. Hairstyles were as high towers, decorated with gas, lace, ribbons, and artificial flowers.
The name of this hairstyle was originated from Mary Angelique, Duchesse de Fontanges, who was the mistress of King Louis XIV of France. Once on the hunt her hair was in disarray, but she put the hair of the gather from the stocking. The King liked it and made her fix her hair that way all the time. The next day all the ladies of the court followed this example, hoping to win favor with Louis XIV.
Hairdo "a La Fontanges"***
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* Lady shoes of baroque style[Electronic resource] .-URL: http://www.industriadelturismo.com/
** How does Fontange hairstyle look? [Electronic resource] .-URL: http://www.innovateus.net/craft/how- does- fontange-hairstyle-look
***Hairdo "a La Fontanges"[Electronic resource] .-URL: http://yandex.ru/images/search?viewport
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Court ladies used white and blush in decorative cosmetics. They used «beauty spots» from the black silk fabric and pasted them on the face and neck. Each «spot» had its own symbolic meaning. So, a «spot» over the lip meant the coquetry, on the forehead- the majesty, in the corner of the eyes- the passion.
Summary:
The main traits of the female Baroque costume - femininity and eroticism. The most Important elements of woman's dresses was a corset (which narrowed waist, extended shoulders and made the back perfectly straight), unreal skirt, dress with a deep neckline and long train.
Dresses were decorated with flounces, ruffles, patterns, themed patterns and prints.
A huge quantity of jewelryand expensive stones were used. Women wore huge hairstyles with ribbons, feathers, flowers...Pomposity, pretentiousness and grandeur were the main components of the female image of the Baroque era.
Lady Shoes were on the French heel, making the gait more careful and graceful. Shoes were decorated with bows, buckles, sockets.
The motto of the Baroque: the more –the better! Excessive luxury and pretentiousness were only welcomed. As Moliere wrote, "from shoes to hats, bows, ribbons, bows, tapes*.
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*The age of Louis XIV. French Baroque
[Electronic resource] .-URL:http://www.sarafan.ru/san/SeG/
2.4. The Baroque style in the modern fashion.
Well, whatdowehavenowfromBaroque? Examining modern fashion shows, we can conclude that the Baroque style is still relevant. Its elements are seen in many collections of modern designers. Modern fashion in the baroque style*
Modern Baroque style is associated with the summer, the holiday, the joy… and it is seen in the clothing, fabric, color, decoration…
Modern garment in Baroque style is presented by the lace and embroidered dresses, blouses with puffed sleeves, wide skirts with bows and buckles, close-fitting jackets, emphasizing the waistline … and even jeans with decorative patterns or sequins in the Baroque style. Nowadays, the designers have enriched the modern female image by the short capes, bows with long ribbons, layered cuffs…
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* Modern fashion in the baroque style [Electronic resource] .-URL:http://yandex.ru/images/searcht
We have compared the historical Baroque costume and contemporary model with the elements of the Baroque trendby the main characteristics and found out that
The fabric of the Baroque style is constant- brocade, velvet, tapestry, silk and… but is enriched with a light chiffon.
The typical colors of the Baroque style (wine, purple, emerald, blue, black and gold) are enriched with orange, ochre, azure, turquoise, and white.
However, the combination of “black and gold” remains the “hallmark” of the Baroque style.
Nevertheless, the Baroque style is seen in the modern fashion not only in design and fabric, but more in decoration and accessory.
Modern Baroque decorations of the clothing are bows, lace, gold embroidery on the collor, cuffs or the entire length of the fabric, appliques, elegant trim.
Modern Baroque clothing is rich in gold, monogram images*, swirls, floral patterns and prints**. Modern designers use animal print, beads, crystal, rhinestones***, bugles**** by creating exclusive designs.
The accessories of modern Baroque are presented by colored fishnet stockings,jewelry (tiaras, large stones, extra long dandling earrings, bags, small in size, but decorated with beads, sunglasses, pointy shoes, buckles and bows.
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* Monogram (from Polish. wezel - site), the initial letters of the name and surname or name and patronymic, usually twisted and forming a pattern. [Electronic resource] Mode of access http://wikipedia-info.ru/tag/venzel-vikipediya/
** Print images (picture, label, or photo, engraved in a certain way on the fabric (embroidery, direct printing on fabric), paper or other surface. lectronic resource] Mode of access https://ru.wikipedia.org/wiki
*** Rhinestones (from it. Strassof the inventor, the glassmaker and jewelerG. Strasse) - imitation gemstones made of lead glass with a high refractive index and dispersion. [Electronic resource] Mode of access https://ru.wikipedia.org/wiki
****Bugles (FR. jais de verre glass cylinders elongated with a longitudinal hole for the threads. [Electronic resource] Mode of access ttps://ru.wikipedia.org/wiki/
The distinctive trait of the modern Baroque style is scarf with animal print in black and gold tones.
Hairstyle of the modern Baroque is opened forehead, raised hair in curls.
Makeup – is a white face, matte red lips, bright accentuated eyebrows.
Summary:
Modern fashion industry is more restrained, but no less luxurious. The baroque style can be clearly seen in the clothing of the modern collections. New colors are added. Massive and expensive jewelry are changed on the light, but bulky bijouterie. Now they use modern inventions, imitating precious jewelry. However, baroque clothing is preferred mainly on the fashion show.
3. Conclusion
In the process of making our project “Baroque fashion. From historical pomposity till modern everyday life…”, we
- studied the peculiarities of the historical costume of the time of Louis XIV and the reasons of its popularity;
- examined the current model of the baroque trend in the collections of modern designers;
-systematized the results in the table bellow, by the most expressed characteristics.
|
Criterions |
Historical costume |
Contemporary model |
|
Characteristics |
bizarre, vulgar, theatrical, fanciful |
"turned inside out classics" |
|
The motto |
Everything should be pompous! |
Bright, flashy, extravagant! |
|
Items of clothing |
Corset necklines, the train (in combination) |
the Bodice, neckline, train (combined and separately) |
|
Fabric |
brocade, velvet, tapestry, silk |
brocade, velvet, silk, chiffon |
|
Colour |
black, blue, wine, emerald, purple |
black, wine, emerald, purple, gold, ochre, white, orange |
|
The style |
combination of unrealistic voluminous sleeves and a three-layered lush skirts |
puffy sleeves or voluminous skirts |
|
Decorations |
monogram, swirls, floral design, prints |
swirls, floral design, prints, embroideries, appliques, trim, rhinestones, glass |
|
Additions to clothes |
fans, umbrellas, hanging watch in gold, mirror in a massive frame |
scarves and bows with animal print in black and white tones |
|
Accessories |
massive jewelry, tiaras, jewels, rings, earrings, bracelets, lockets, necklaces |
(jewelry, earrings, handbags, sunglasses, fishnet tights |
|
Hairstyles |
hairstyles-Fontanges (combination of curls and starch tattoos) with feathers and ribbons |
opened forehead, raised hair in curls |
|
Makeup |
powdered face, "flies" |
white face, matte red lips, bright the underlined eyebrows |
|
Shoes |
pointed overhanging tip toe, decorated with bows, buckles |
pointy shoes on French heels ("glass") are decorated with bows, buckles |
,where we can see that the Baroque style, despite his "pretentiousness", remains not only relevant, but also more interesting.
It has been enriched by a fresh palette of colors, with modern elements of decoration, additional accessories.
And finally, bright, extravagant Baroque inspired us to create our own collection of sketches of modern casual clothing with Baroque elements. We believe that our everyday clothes lack exclusivity... But any part of the garment we can decorate with floral print, ornament, monograms, rhinestones...
We created a collection of sketches in the Baroque style, thinking of combination of the items of the clothes, decorations…
These drawings is a collective image of our idea of the costume of the Baroque era in the process of research its elements and the reasons of its popularity.
The motto of our collection: Extravagant, but in reasonable! We believe that we have managed to prove Baroque to present today, not only on the catwalks of the famous salons of fashion, but also in our everyday clothing.(see Appendix 2 of "a Collection of sketches by contemporary casual clothing in the BAROQUE style of the designer Elizaveta Manuzina")
4. Reference literature.
1. History of Baroque. Clothing [Electronic resource].-URL:
http://www.ehow.com/info_8608112_history-baroque-clothing.html
2. History of fashion. The Baroque. [Electronic resource].-URL:
http://fashionhistory.zeesonlinespace.net/baroque.html
3. Laura Evans "Elements of Baroque Fashion"
[Electronic resource] .-URL:
http://www.life123.com/arts-culture/art-history/baroque/baroque-fashion.shtml
4. How does Fontange hairstyle look?
[Electronic resource] .-URL: http://www.innovateus.net/craft/
5. The Baroque in the fashion world
[Electronic resource] .-URL:
http://www.vogue.it/en/encyclo/fashion/b/the-baroque-in-the-fashion-world
6. Baroque - Wikipedia
[Electronic resource] .-URL: https://ru.wikipedia.org/wiki/Барокко
7. Monogram [Electronic resource] .-URL: http://wikipedia-info.ru/tag/venzel
8. The gallant century-Wikipedia. About the term "gallantry"
[Electronic resource] .-URL: https://ru.wikipedia.org/
9. Classic styles [Electronic resource] .-URL:
http://www.passion.ru/beauty/style/style.html
10. Cultural conflict [Electronic resource] .-URL: https://ru.wikipedia.org
11. Service Baroque [Electronic resource] .-URL: http://yandex.ru/images/search
12. Print [Electronic resource] .-URL: https://ru.wikipedia.org/wiki
13. Hairstyles-Fontanges Baroque**[Electronic resource] .-URL:
http://yandex.ru/images/search?viewport=wide&text
14. Beauty-Studio AndreyKovalenko. Fashion Baroque
[Electronic resource] Mode of access: http://atelier.kharkov.ua/
15. The age of Louis XIV. French Baroque
[Electronic resource] Mode of access: http://www.sarafan.ru/san/SeG
Appendix 1
The pictures of historic Baroque fashion of a designer E. Manuzina
Baroque fashion then...
Appendix 2
Collection of sketches of modern casual clothing with Baroque elements of a designer E. Manuzina